Xu Zhi | SS19

Central Saint Martin’s graduate Xuzhi Chen once again displayed his creative aesthetic showcasing an elegant collection for his seventh London Fashion Week season. Incorporating elements from poet Emily Dickson, Xu based the collection on different aspects of her character and work. Xu Zhi’s SS19 collection presents an original representation of romance, and sensuality in the form of 16 elegant designs.

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In a collection inspired by the romance and strength depicted in Emily Dickson’s poetry, two temple place provided the perfect atmosphere for the line to be displayed. Consisting of 16 different looks, each individual outfit within the collection was presented in pairs of two, with each duo featuring one coloured garment and one white design creating a dramatic colour clash, complimenting both pieces. Along with each look a separate back drop for each pair told an individual story, creating the sense of multiple universes, yet all in one space, drawing the collection together.

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One of the most intense duos from the collection featured a deep pink floor length dress. Falling from a ruffled bodice ending mid-thigh. The dress then floated into a perfectly detailed bottom, made up of light fluffy tassels each individually covering the remaining length of the dress. The second ensemble of the duo entailed a light grey satin suit, sporting a low cut and collared neck, the top half of the outfit also highlighted a large lilac flower print, with the two halves of the pattern joined together mid waist by a white button, presenting an immaculate symmetrical design.

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The same large floral lilac pattern featured along the right leg of the suit coordinating the suit flawlessly. With a soft pink backdrop the two designs combined with the set presented the aspect of romance that Xuzhi Chen aimed to convey in his collection.

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Flowers within the collection, used to represent the flowers pressed by Emily Dickson, appeared as embroidery on a range of the outfits adding new levels of detail, form and depth to the clothes. The combination of colours and flower detailing, effortlessly represent Xu Zhi’s main focus whilst designing the collection and represented the aspects of Emily Dickinson in a picturesque light.

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Another highlight from the presentation included a delicate white dress, with detailing built up on top of a gentle white mesh. The dress included a block white flower pattern layered under an array of white feathery tassels, which also featured on other items throughout the collection. The clever assortment of layers allowed for the mesh beneath to show in patches on the dress, creating the illusion of an off shoulder dress, and softening the large flower shapes beneath the tassels. This technique followed the pattern of subtlety seen with other flower detailing across the collection.

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By Lorna May Tyler

(Featured on Hauturely app)

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